Pleated Trousers - Forward or reverse?

TCR1982 forward-pleated bespoke trousers.

For the past several months, friends and clients have always asked for the reason behind my preference to cut only forward-pleated trousers. Whenever trousers pleats is discussed, most would believe it serves the primary purpose of adding more room to the thigh region of the wearer, and the folding direction of the pleats is more of an aesthetic preference. Having studied human anatomy since school days, the knowledge and observations accumulated serves me today in my tailoring passion and lead me to believe there are more practical reasoning that offers insight into the relationship between a trousers pleat direction and our lower torso (particularly the hip and thighs region).

I will share my theory which is the primary driver behind my decision to cut pleated-trousers with only forward facing pleats. Since this article is written for seasoned enthusiast, I figured there is no need to get into the basic explanation of pleats.

To understand the relationship between a trousers pleats and the result after wearing, we have to understand the lower torso anatomy. For such purpose, I’ve illustrated a brief sketch of a leg anatomy in front and side view. Refer to the sketch below and observe how our muscles are created and shaped.

Fig 1a.

Fig 1b.

From the sketch, one can discern the anatomy of the thigh muscles, starting from the center strip of muscle (Rectus Femoris), extending towards the outer side (Vastus Lateralis) as it descends. This observation becomes evident when standing and observing the diagonal bulges of these muscles on the thigh, providing a clear indication of their directional orientation.

Now, let's delve into the topic of trouser pleats, focusing specifically on forward pleats for the sake of brevity. Forward-pleated trousers are designed to accommodate the outward bulge of the thigh muscles, providing ample room on the outer side. A reverse-pleated trousers on the other-hand focus on creating additional room on the center, which is the groin region. As such, a ballooning effect concentrated on the groin area can always be observed on reverse-pleated trousers when the wearer is sitting down.

Pay enough attention and you’ll be able to observe how the pressing line (center crease) tends to hold better on a forward-pleated trousers than a reverse-pleated trousers. But of course, the cut of the trousers and the fabric itself also plays a part in how well the crease holds.

The last point that supports this rationale would be the utilisation of the front pockets. Referring to the sketch above, you can see that additional room is allocated on the outer side of the trousers, allowing the concealment of bulging effect from items placed inside the pockets. This is yet another excellent reason to go for forward-pleated trousers over reverse-pleated trousers.

I do hope this article is able to help explain with much efficiency, the theory of why forward-pleated trousers will always have an advantage over reverse-pleated trousers in terms of functionality and aesthetic.

Sincerely,

Alexander K