what makes a suit of great quality?

Having a post-fitting discussion with my friend and client. January 2023.

A suit is an essential item in any wardrobe, and investing in a quality suit is a must for every man who wants to look his best. However, with so many options on the market, it can be difficult to know what to look for when buying a suit. In this article, we will discuss the four key elements that make a suit of great quality: cloth, cut, construction, and confidence.

Cloth

The quality of the cloth used to make a suit is perhaps the most important factor to consider. A high-quality suit is made from natural fibers such as wool, cashmere, or silk. These fibers are durable, breathable, and not to mention expensive, which explains the elegant and polished appearance you find on most high-quality suits.

However, not all wool is created equal. The highest quality wool (in relation to microns) comes from merino sheep, which produces fibers that are finer and smoother than other breeds. Merino wool suits can be made from super 100s, 120s, or 140s fabrics, which are fine, with an elegant smooth finishing. The thread count can even go beyond 180s (about 14.5 microns), however it is important to understand that higher thread count doesn’t necessarily translate to better. Always assess your practical needs and physique before making your decision. For example, a bodybuilder could do better in a suit made from a medium weight fabric rather than super S180s light-weight fabric. The weight of the cloth is also a crucial consideration as it plays a direct role in determining how well the drape of the completed suit will turn out (along with the cut). For instance, a suit constructed from a medium weight 320g fabric will likely have a cleaner result as compared to one made from a 245g lightweight wool fabric. For individuals with high spending ability, fabrics woven from extremely luxurious natural fibres like pure cashmere, or even Vicuña may be considered.

Cut

The cut of the suit is another essential element of great quality. A well-tailored suit should fit your body perfectly and accentuate your best features. It should be comfortable to wear and allow for ease of movement. A good cut takes into account your body type, height, and personal style, and creates a silhouette that flatters you.

Where bespoke suit is concern, there is no absolute way to define a cut for bespoke suit by category, since the suit is cut for you, and you alone . A classic cut is perceived as timeless and traditional, with a straighter silhouette and more room in the chest and waist. On the other hand, a slim cut is recognise with a more form-fitting and trendy, with a narrower cut in the chest and waist. This type of cut tends to serve an aesthetic purpose rather than functional, since a suit that is cut slim is often accompanied by restrictions in movements, which contradicts the fundamentals of good tailoring. In The Cutting Room atelier, the best cut we believe in achieving for a client, is one with a balance that takes into consideration, the client’s anatomical ratios from top to bottom, as well as his natural posture. Ultimately, our philosophy guides us into making a cut that feels both comfortable and flattering to the client.

Construction

The construction of the suit refers to how it is put together. A high-quality suit is constructed with care and attention to detail, using traditional techniques that have been honed over centuries. Suits with interior that are constructed on canvass tend to come with a higher price tag, as well as durability and resilience enough to go beyond a decade if well-taken care of. With advanced production technology these days, a canvassed suit can be built at different levels of machinery involvement. Chest canvass and lapels that is traditionally sewn by hand, can now be padded by machines designed for the purpose. There are benefits of a hand sewn chest piece (especially by your very own tailor), one of which allows for the creation of a canvass form that aligns closely with your natural torso shape, allowing the suit to conform to your upper body physique nicely.

Factories in countries such as Italy, Dubai, India and China are capable of producing canvass jackets with a good amount of machine work (about 70% of the entire process). As a result, the completed piece comes out clean, in fact, too clean. Artisanal creations refers to garments that completed with a large amount of handwork, including the interior canvass construction, hand-sewn facings, inner linings and other finishing details such as button-holes and pick stitchings (which can easily be done with machines for less than half the time required). These are feats only achievable by artisans with a strong passion and patience for the craft. It is also important to understand that just because certain details are done by hand, it allows for sloppiness in finishing.

Confidence

The final element of a great quality suit is confidence. A high-quality suit should give you a sense of stature. It should fit you well, accentuate your best features while complementing the flaws, and make you feel comfortable and confident. When you wear a great suit, you exude a certain level of confidence and poise that can't be faked. A quality suit can make all the difference in how you are perceived and can give you an edge in any situation.

In short, a great quality suit is determined with these four elements: cloth, cut, construction, and confidence. A combination of superior craftsmanship and high-quality materials, combined with a balanced fit brings its wearer value at the highest score. When hunting for a suit, keep these factors in mind and don't be afraid to invest in (the right) high-quality suit that will last you for years to come, given that there isn’t any dramatic fluctuations in your physique. Remember, investing in a bespoke suit is not just about acquiring a piece of clothing; it’s about embracing an appreciation for excellence in a traditional craft that is made specially to serve you and your interest. Whether worn daily or on special occasions, your bespoke suit will age elegantly with you and tell your story with timeless appeal.