A Simple Guide To Made-to-Measure and Bespoke.
Often mistake for being the same, the difference between a bespoke suit and one that is made-to-measure can considerably conspicuous in the eyes of the erudite. Let us explore the principles behind the tailoring that set one apart from the other.
Among the self-loving, poised men who appreciate suiting up, are the discerning ones who understand the difference between a suit that is made-to-measure and one that is bespoke.
How is made to measure different from bespoke? To tell the difference requires the understanding of the sophisticated process behind the full construction of a suit, although it may sound technical, but once observed, can only encourage one to hold in high esteem, the tailors who sew and the suit that’s been sewn.
Made-to-Measure
Most people would believe that made-to-measure and bespoke describes the same process when it comes to tailoring. However, that is not the case.
It is no wonder that most men would think of made-to-measure as bespoke as the term literally implies ‘made to the measurement’ of one’s body. While made-to-measure suits are tailored to fit one’s body, the pattern is modified off an existing standard pattern of a sizing. (e.g. an Italian size 42 pattern, followed by a size 44). Most adjustments are made during the fittings, usually conducted with a Master Garment between one to two fittings before the suit is delivered. A Master Garment is basically a sample garment (shirt, trousers, jacket or waistcoat) made based various sizing pattern developed. In a made-to-measure fitting, clients are fitted with a Master Garment with a sizing that is closest to their built, any adjustments and tweaks is recorded down. Aside from the advantage of a better fit as compared to a ready-to-wear, a made-to-measure suit carries a presentation that is similar to any other suit, which is to be expected, as the options for customisations are limited (buttons, pockets, lapels and other minor details) since they would usually follow the sample models offered, and the practice varies differently across tailoring houses. As with the level of customisations allowed, the construction of a made-to-measure suit varies accordingly to the tailoring houses one visits as well. For jackets, there are tailors that offers the option of either fused construction, half-canvass (or half-fused), and fully canvassed construction. Likewise, there are tailors that strictly do their suits and jackets fully canvassed. The difference comes down to the quality of the craftsmanship, the longevity of the suit, and the price that is tagged.
Bespoke
First coined in the 17th century in Savile Row, the term bespoke literally means ‘ been spoken for’ as a way to imply an order, with the fabric chosen that is exclusively made to the specifications of an individual . Truth be told, since the 17th century, the term ‘bespoke’ has been overused and doesn’t reflect the true spirit and intention as when it was first introduced. We have covered Made-to-Measure suits. Bespoke suits, on the other hand, are created through multiple fitting processes and oftentimes, between 30-60 hours of meticulous hand stitching (depending on the complexity of the bespoke suit and the efficiency of the tailor). In The Cutting Room practice, a pattern is created from scratch exclusively for the client based on his specifications obtained from various points of measurements before having a prototype fabric stitched together for the initial first or second fitting (for extremely complex anatomy). The perfected pattern will then be transferred to the actual fabric, of a finer quality that’s been spoken for. The process of bespeaking a suit can take anywhere from 6 to 12 weeks (and it may possibly take longer in different parts of the world). A bespoke suit may be priced from $2000 to $7000 and even higher if you are considering having a suit made from some of the world finest fibres. For instance, bespeaking a Vicuña jacket takes you into the five digit range.
It is common at some point where we mull over the options of bespoke and made-to-measure, whichever would be best for us. I would share to share that the decision comes down to budget and body type. Where suit is concern, the fit is king and as straightforward as it sounds, I believe neither you nor I would want to walk down the street in an unflattering two-piece suit. A man who believes in quality and has no concerns for budget should always have his suit bespoken and the same would be recommended for one whose physical anatomy is slightly (or drastically) asymmetrical. Before moving onto bespoke suits, I had a couple of made-to-measure suits and those suits are still serving me well to this date. It is ultimately a matter of individual preference and most importantly, the suit fits you ideally and enhance your image with through a better fit and masculinity.
If you are looking to have your first suit made, here is an article written for you to avoid the mistakes that are commonly made when it comes to making your first suit. OR you can simply drop us an email to book an appointment at our atelier to experience The Cutting Room 1982 bespoke tailoring process.
